... And you took me for about two hundred bucks.

I grinned.

So what've you been up to? I asked him.

Oh, the usual business. There are big sales and small sales. I've got a big one going now.

Congratulations. I'm glad to hear that. Hope it works out.

Me, too.

So we made small talk while he finished his beer; then, Have you seen much of this town? I asked.

Not really. I hear it's quite a place.

Oh, I think you'll like it. I was here for their Festival once. Everybody takes bennies to stay awake for the whole three days. Indios come down from the hills and put on dances. They still hold paseos here, too, you know? And they have the only Gothic cathedral in all of Mexico. It was designed by an illiterate Indian, who had seen pictures of the things on postcards from Europe. They didn't think it would stay up when they took the scaffolding down, but it did and has done so for a long time.

I wish I could stick around, but I'm only here for a day or so. I thought I'd buy some souvenirs to take home to the family.

This is the place. Stuff is cheap here. Jewelry, especially.

I wish I had more time to see some of the sights.

There is a Toltec ruin atop a hill to the northeast, which you might have noticed because of the three crosses set at its summit. It is interesting because the government still refuses to admit it exists. The view from up there is great.

I'd like to see it. How do you get in?

You just walk out there and climb it. It doesn't exist, so there are no restrictions.

How long a hike?

Less than an hour, from here. Finish your beer, and we'll take a walk.

He did, and we did.

He was breathing heavily in a short time. But then, he lived near sea level and this was like 6,500 feet, elevation.

We made it up to the top, though, and wandered amid cacti. We seated ourselves on some big stones.